A few newbie questions...a bit confused

[Pals_id]

Hello,

I have been doing a lot of research over the past month on garter snakes. I have purchased a couple books and read the care sheet here, on other websites and on breeder websites...and they all say slightly different things. I wanted to see what most of you do concerning a few different topics. I will be keeping T. sirtalis infernalis and T. sirtalis pickeringi.

Food
It seems that a varied diet is the most recommended between "safe" fish, earthworms, and rodents. What do you make the "staple" food item and do you supplement with calcium, vitamin D, and reptile multi-vitamins? I was going to switch to pinkies, but some say to not feed rodents more than twice a month due to the high fat content.

Humidity
With currently keeping all boa constrictors, I keep the humidity between 60-80% with enough ventilation so that it does not condense in the enclosure. Would this be adequate, or should it be less for garters?

Caging
I am looking at a rack system with tubs from Boaphile Plastics for my baby garters. They look great and have 3" heat tape built in, which I would control with a Herpstat 4 thermostat set to about 85-86 degrees F. I know that garter babies are better escape artists than boa babies though. Take a look at this link:
Plastic Reptile Cages, Tanks and Racks. Snake, arboreal, lizard and turtle light weight custom flexwatt heated enclosures.

I was thinking of putting a few strips of the foam weather stripping on the bottom of the tub so that it fits very snug to the top shelf and use a soldering iron to make small holes in the sides of the tubs for airflow. Would this work, or is it inevitable they would still escape between the top shelf and the tub?

Any help regarding these three topics would be appreciated.
Thank you

[mb90078]

With regards to food, it's really up to you which you make the staple. As long as you plan to provide a varied diet, it won't matter much which of those is the primary food, and supplements should not be necessary. With regards to feeding rodents too frequently, some will tell you it is a potential problem, and many others will tell you it's not. Again, this is up to you, and as long as you plan to go with a variety of foods, I wouldn't be concerned.

[EasternGirl]

I feed my snakes pinkies, fish fillet, and worms. I wouldn't say that one is a staple...I try to keep it varied as much as possible. In other words, I will feed pinkies for one feeding, then worms for the next, etc...or I will mix food together. The only supplement I use is a liquid calcium supplement in their water...although, I am thinking of adding Vitamin D3, since it helps to absorb the calcium. I use the supplement because pinkies do not provide enough calcium and neither do fish fillets. My humidity usually runs around 40% if I'm lucky...I try to get it higher with misting during shedding time. I would think that humidity of 50-60% would be good for garters...but I wouldn't go higher than that. That's my opinion...you can ask other members what they think. I keep my warm side of the tank around 82-84 degrees during the day...86 at the highest. Of course the basking spot gets a bit warmer at times. They need that gradient...so the cool side of the tank is usually around 75 during the day. At night, the warm side is around 78 and the cool side is around 71. I'll let someone else advise you on the tubs...I have all of my snakes in 20 and 30 gallon tanks.

[Pals_id]

Alright,

Thanks for the replies so far! One source says one thing and another supposedly reliable source says something else! I tend to be the "anal" type as far as keeping husbandry in check. Which has served me well in keeping boas (currently 5.5), but I tend to over think things a bit.

I have an infrared temp gun to measure the temps on the basking spot surface and use a digital thermometer/hygrometer to measure ambient temps and humidity. Since garter care and temps are different than a tropical species, I just wanted to double check that I have the right information.

From what I have read and Marnie's post calcium and D3 supplementation seems like a good thing when used sparingly. One book said to lightly dust the food item every three feedings with calcium/D3 powder, especially for growing babies. Of course, overdoing it can also cause adverse results.

Garters must have a much faster metabolism than boas too, it sounds like these things are eating machines!

[EasternGirl]

Phil...many members on here use the Calcium and D3 powder and also recommend lightly dusting the food every 3-4 feedings. Repcal is a good one...and I have it, I just can't get my snakes to eat food when it's dusted with it...they are extremely picky eaters! Other members seem to do fine with it. There are tips members can give you for using it, should your snakes become fussy about eating food with the powder on it. I have have a couple of snakes that are hard to feed anyway...so I just decided to go with the liquid calcium. Sounds like you have some really nice stuff for your snakes...very nice devices you have for measuring temps and humidity. Yes, from what I understand...you always have to be careful not to overdo the supplements. After talking with my vet and some members, I decided not to use multivitamins because I was afraid of giving too much. But some members do use them and someone else may be able to advise you on how to give them safely. As far as how much a garter eats...it really depends on the snake. I have one female who would eat everyday if I let her, and one male that I have a horrible time getting him to eat. And of course...they metabolize worms and fish much faster than pinkies. It all depends on the size and age of the snake, and that particular snake's eating habits...on how much to feed. When you get your snakes...we can advise you on how much to feed and how to go about feeding specifically.

[kibakiba]

I'd like to say that humidity doesn't need to really go over 60... it should stay around 50, maybe up to 70 if the snake was in shed.

[EasternGirl]

That's what I was thinking, but I wasn't absolutely positive on that so I was saying that I wanted other members to comment on that, so thanks Chantel. My humidity is usually around 40% if I'm lucky in the winter...and I mist and use towels to cover half the top of the tank to limit air circulation to get it up to 50% during shed time.

[katach]

Garters must have a much faster metabolism than boas too, it sounds like these things are eating machines!

You will find that garters are much more active than boas. They are very interactive and curious. You will love them! I have 2 adult female pickeringii. They are amazing! Welcome to the forum family!

[aquamentus_11]

yeah, I had a boa previously. he was awesome, but garters are a lot more fun to interact with imo. they're always curious to see what you're up to. they seem very intelligent for snakes. if you don't want to use the Ca2+ powder or water treatment, you could try good old UVB. They're much less nocturnal than boids and seem to enjoy "sunshine" (as in UVB). Mine likes it in small doses, but I've read that some garters will bask for hours. The humidity and heating requirements are way more lax than for boas, too. I keep one side in the low 70's, the warm side in the upper 70's and a basking spot in the mid-high 80's. I just use a 60W CHE. My humidity stays around 60%, but I have live plants and like to mist in the mornings for her to simulate dew (I'm a nerd). I also mist when it rains outside. This has worked best for me, but they obviously vary. You're going to love them.

[guidofatherof5]

Nice to have you on he forum.