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Color
When I got my radix from Jason, he said it was from someone's high red line. (Don't remember who.) Anyway, he shed again last week, and I'd say h's definitely getting redder. What do you think?

I also got a pic of all three of them. Their heads, L-R are Zach, erythristic eastern; Wendel, coast, and Vinnie, radix. Nothing like three snakes moving to get a fuzzy picture!

And I had my own "watch them while they eat" moment tonight. Zach had a big fat worm bite, and Vinnie just had to have it. He chased him and grabbed the worm, and Zach's head. I had to lift them up and pull them apart. It was only some lips and face, but scary none the less.
Way to go guys! It's not bad enough she has to worry about her (new) teenagers...
Theresa in Indy
1.0 T marcianus, 1.1 dogs, 1.0 cat, 2.0 skin kids
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Smells Like Teen Spirit
Re: Color
Great pics thanks for sharing them
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Subadult snake
Re: Color
Looking good! Glad to see the ery is doing well, he's getting some nice color too! The high red radix came from Scott, now 3 of 4 purchased have at least some red coloration.
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Re: Color
 Originally Posted by Chondro788
Glad to see the ery is doing well, he's getting some nice color too!
Yeah, he's our favorite! It's nice to see him go from wimpy little guy to trying to take on the radix in the battle for the biggest bite of food!
Theresa in Indy
1.0 T marcianus, 1.1 dogs, 1.0 cat, 2.0 skin kids
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Re: Color
I see the red. BTW, your moving subjects are blurry because if your exposure compensation is on "auto", the shutter speed is slower than usual to compensate for low light. (longer exposure) Brighter light on the subject should help, especially direct sunlight.
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T.s. affectionado
Re: Color
He's lovely Tress and Jason! I definitely see that red coming out. Tress...definitely keep a close eye on those three if you are going to feed them together...or you may want to start separating them during feed time. I never feed my snakes together because of possible food fights and the dangers. Did you see the recent thread with the member who literally had to take one snake out of the throat of another snake? If he hadn't gotten there in time...both snakes would be dead. Like I have said before, I understand with members who have numerous snakes having to feed together because it is just impossible to separate numerous snakes and put them all into separate feed tanks...but if you don't have too many snakes and it is possible to separate during feed time, I would do it.
Marnie
3.3 T.s.sirtalis 1.0 T.marcianus 1.2 T.radix 1.0 T.s.parietalis
Izzy, Seeley, Ziggy, Perseus, Peanut, Snapper, Hermes, Sadie, Osiris, Seraphina, Little Joe
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Re: Color
Instead of the macro setting, I should be using the action setting?
Theresa in Indy
1.0 T marcianus, 1.1 dogs, 1.0 cat, 2.0 skin kids
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"PM Boots For Custom Title"
Re: Color
 Originally Posted by tress29
Instead of the macro setting, I should be using the action setting?
If you don't use the macro setting your pics will be out of focus because the macro mode lets you focus closer to the subject. Brighter light is what you need really. Will the camera let you select your shutter speed when you use macro mode?
ChrisT. marcianus, T. e. cuitzeoensis, T. cyrtopsis, T. radix, T. s. infernalis, T. s. tetrataenia
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Re: Color
It's a point and shoot mostly, so I'll have to look in the booklet. What I guess I need to do is turn on some lights?
Theresa in Indy
1.0 T marcianus, 1.1 dogs, 1.0 cat, 2.0 skin kids
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Re: Color
If you're more than 12 inches or so away from the subject, there's no need for macro mode. With macro off, you can always use the zoom feature, preferably optical zoom. Don't go so far that it has to use digital zoom.
I've never messed around with manually controlling the shutter speed. Most cameras adjust that automatically to the fastest speed (shortest exposure) needed for the light conditions. Adjusting the exposure time to be longer or faster manually would just make your pics too bright or too dark, respectively, given the light available. I would turn macro off for a picture like this, make sure the subject is well illuminated, and manually adjust the white balance to "incandescent" if the color looks too yellow, set to "florescent" if it looks too blue.
Having more light on the subject alone should reduce the exposure time automatically, and therefor reduce blur should the subject move.
It's worth your while to study the manual and play around with the settings and practice to learn how they affect the outcome. It can make your photos look very professional once you get the hang of it.
 Originally Posted by tress29
It's a point and shoot mostly, so I'll have to look in the booklet. What I guess I need to do is turn on some lights?
Light the subject well, but don't have the light shining at the face of the camera.
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