Northern Redbelly HELP

[eratosthaenes]

Hi. I understand that this is a garter snake site, but I was advised to ask my question here, given that there might be people familiar with the storeria genus (storeria occipitomaculata). There is not alot of information dedicated to that snake. Here is what I seek advice on:

My son found this snake, a northern redbelly about 3 months ago in the Chicago area and we decided to try to keep him. Things seem to have gone well so far. The snake is very active, very calm and very friendly toward being held. Since the beginning we have fed him several earthworms, about once a week (tried slugs at first but he did not take). He has eaten probably 4 to 5 times since we started, after not eating anything for the first couple weeks. However, recently he stopped eating, and hasn't for about the past three weeks (last feed was late Oct. / early Nov.). We have tried cutting the worms into smaller pieces but that did not work. We have left him alone for a few days at a time between attempts. After eating well for a while, he has just stopped. At first he seemed interested in the worms but was not "going for it" and in one attempt he actually struck at the worm, but gave up after not getting a good hold. Now he has no interest at all. I posted to another site and spoke with some snake experts and it seems he needs to Brumate...? Does anyone have a different viewpoint and/or any specific experience brumating a small snake such as this? Temperature? Duration? Technique? I have a small wine refrigerator which can go from 45 to 66 degrees F. That would be where I would put him, but I would appreciate any help with this species and/or similar ones such as storeria dekays. Thank you.

[Tommytradix]

first i want to say welcome to the forum!! here is what i would do in your situation. i would put him in a tub with a large enough water dish so he can soak if he wants. fill it 1/4-1/2 way with aspen bedding and set the fridge at 65 and drop the temp 2 degrees every day until you get to 48-50 degrees. it should take about a week to get to the desired temp. then leave him in for 45-60 days. make sure to check on him 2-3 times a week opening the door to let fresh air in. a week before you want to bring him out do the same 2 degrees raising the temp to the highest setting then put him in his enclosure at room temp for a day then turn heat on. i would try feeding after 1 day of being on heat but don't get discouraged if he don't eat right away, some of mine take up to a week to eat after brumation.
i hope this helps and good luck!

[guidofatherof5]

Be sure its been at least 3 weeks since the last meal. The gut has to be empty before brumation. You can also keep the snake out and monitor the weight. Brumation may not be necessary in all cases.

[eratosthaenes]

thank you both for the responses. so here is an update. I decided to put him in the fridge before I read these responses. His enclosure fits well in there, so I just put it in there with water and spangam moss as a substrate, but only about an inch or two deep, and started dropping the temps (now at 58, headed down to 48). I plan to give him fresh air every day or so and change the water every few days or so. I checked on him and he seems to be pretty mellow, not under his rock, but just laying there on the substrate. My question is, how important is it that I fill his tub with more substrate (half to a quarter, as was prescribed by tommytradix above)? I can try to do that relatively quickly when i change his water, but it will be more disruptive to him as it involves me handling him for maybe about 5 minutes while i set it up. (as opposed to just changing the water which I can do really quickly and non disruptively. Any thoughts on the question of how much substrate he needs to be on?

[joeysgreen]

The above advice is great for how to brumate your snake, which is likely the reason for going off of feed. I do not know if this species is an obligatory hibernator or not (being that he'll try to hibernate irregardless of husbandry conditions). Before brumating your snake, you should be certain it is in otherwise good health and physical condition. There are many reasons for anorexia including pain, dehydration, being too cold, disease, inappropriate prey, stress, etc. A photograph of your snake may be helpful in us regarding your snake's condition, but nothing is better than a hand's on exam by someone familiar with the species... this can be a more seasoned herpetoculturist, herpetologist, or if illness is suspected, your veterinarian. A photograph and/or description of the captive environment that you are offering will help us help you as well. If it's a good set up, then indeed the most likely cause of anorexia is seasonal behavioral change. If there are deficits in your husbandry, then they should be addressed, and may point to one of the more compromising causes of anorexia.

Ian