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Thread: Meet the gang!

  1. #131
    Pyrondenium Rose kibakiba's Avatar
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    Re: Meet the gang!

    Well, lets say she did get pregnant right away, she'd be due in November. You don't need to seem like a know-it-all on this. Her belly is getting bigger without her eating a whole bunch so it kind of seems like she is. Right? Sheesh.
    Chantel
    2.2.3 Thamnophis ordinoides Derpy Scales, Hades, Mama, Runt, Pumpkin, Azul, Spots
    (Rest in peace Snakey, Snap, Speckles, Silver, Ember and Angel.)

  2. #132
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    Re: Meet the gang!

    Yup. I'd say she's probably gravid. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure that out. In fact, a rocket scientist probably wouldn't even have a clue about such matters.

    If you get an opportunity to weigh her soon, do it. (in grams if possible) then weigh her about 30 days later. A significant increase in weight will all but confirm it.

  3. #133
    Pyrondenium Rose kibakiba's Avatar
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    Re: Meet the gang!

    I only have a human scale and I know she doesn't fit the 25 pound limit on it No money to but a little scale for her, we're going to be spending the rest of our little bit of non-bill money on Tiny's guppies and we're buying a little tank to keep them in since I don't think Tiny would eat 5 guppies in just a day or two
    Chantel
    2.2.3 Thamnophis ordinoides Derpy Scales, Hades, Mama, Runt, Pumpkin, Azul, Spots
    (Rest in peace Snakey, Snap, Speckles, Silver, Ember and Angel.)

  4. #134
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    Re: Meet the gang!

    No worries, Chantel. Visual and behavior observations (and you do seem to have very good observational skills) are enough to "know" if a snake is gravid, especially live-bearing snakes. You'll see her getting thicker, especially the lower 1/3 of her body.

    Money or access to a scale doesn't matter as long as you love your snakes, you are knowledgeable of their needs, and can provide for their relatively meager needs. (food, climate and housing) Northwesterns are very hardy. They can do well and have successful litters even under less than ideal conditions. Your snakes look very healthy so I think you've been doing well for them.

    I will offer some advice based on experience with northwestern garters. Do not provide bottom heat such as hot rocks or undertank heaters. The snakes are somewhat dumb and will sit on that bottom heat and "cook" the developing eggs within them. Even when they are gravid, it's better to keep them cooler than comfortable than it is to allow them to get too warm.

    Also, do provide a regular day/night cycle. That is pretty important. Night time should have at least a 10 degree drop in temperature and night should be uninterrupted darkness. If they don't have a sense of day/night which includes appropriate temperature fluctuations, problems with appetite and hormones can occur and that can disrupt their natural biorhythms.

    What I mean is, if you were a snake being kept by a giant, and you kept getting your nights interrupted and/or you room (cage) was too warm or too cold at the wrong times, you wouldn't feel very good about that, would you?

    And now, she's likely gravid. Best "middle of the road" solution would be to keep her at nice warm from light above, daytime temperatures (80-85 on the warm end, 70-75 on cool end should be fine) but drop the temps at night. Keep it dark and cool at night. She'll sleep better and so will her babies.

    Also, try to feed her right after she's fully warmed up early in the day. If not, then feed her near "bedtime"

  5. #135
    Pyrondenium Rose kibakiba's Avatar
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    Re: Meet the gang!

    I wouldn't use a heat pad or rock on my garters, my friend rescues boas and one owner killed her snake by letting it sit on the pad all day and night, the whole snakes body was completely burned. My friend tried saving the snake but it was just too far gone. I also have the adult light on the babies because of the money problems but I have my heater near one side of the tank and I occasionally turn it on just to heat it up on that side (but not for long) They get the temperatures that I get naturally, and since this is their normal temp around this time I figure it's more "natural" besides the warmness from when the heater is on low. I usually feed her later in the day, she gets the babies left overs because I always cut way more than I need. Just that feeds her and Snakey. If we do happen to buy the guppies I'll get another lamp and light for them to have. It's rough times this year. Luckily my mom may get a job soon. Then the snakes get even more pampered because she loves them so much
    Chantel
    2.2.3 Thamnophis ordinoides Derpy Scales, Hades, Mama, Runt, Pumpkin, Azul, Spots
    (Rest in peace Snakey, Snap, Speckles, Silver, Ember and Angel.)

  6. #136
    T. radix Ranch guidofatherof5's Avatar
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    Re: Meet the gang!

    I have read many horror stories about heat rocks burning animals.
    Using a rheostat will greatly reduce any chance of burns from under tank heaters.
    Heat rocks also give the opportunity for escape since the cord as a rule goes out the top of the enclosure.
    Now, with that being said I also don't know if the new heat rocks have addressed the over heating problems.
    I used many under tanks heaters and so far have never had a problem. I hope this continues.
    Steve
    5 awesome kids!
    Emmy, Kale, Molly, Gabby, Hailee
    They are not just snakes. They're garter snakes.
    http://www.youtube.com/user/thamnophis14?feature=mhee

  7. #137
    Pyrondenium Rose kibakiba's Avatar
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    Re: Meet the gang!

    Around here the lamps and lights (that last 6+ months) cost a lot less than the rocks anyways, I wouldn't even risk using a rock though I find my lamps work just fine, even if I have to turn them off myself
    Chantel
    2.2.3 Thamnophis ordinoides Derpy Scales, Hades, Mama, Runt, Pumpkin, Azul, Spots
    (Rest in peace Snakey, Snap, Speckles, Silver, Ember and Angel.)

  8. #138
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    Re: Meet the gang!

    I have to tell you, I do use a heat pad for the babies which I bought in anticipation of their arrival. I knew I would have to heat plastic tubs somehow so I bought it.

    However, this is not your ordinary reptile heat pad. Those in my opinion (I have one I don't use) get way to hot, especially if placed under substrate and are only really suitable for placing vertically on glass.

    For $29 I bought a heat pad that is big enough to heat the entire underside of a 20 gallon long tank, and whats more, it doesn't get too hot, even sitting on carpet with a heavy tank on top, and that's because it isn't made for reptiles and yet, it's perfect for this purpose. It's better than the pads (and cheaper) made specifically for reptiles!

    Here it is. I bought it at a garden center: (ignore the 20X20 thing. That's a bunch of bull, or it's a typo. It's a long rectangle for cryin' out loud)

    Amazon.com: Hydrofarm MT10008 20-by-20-Inch Seedling Heat Mat: Patio, Lawn & Garden

    And you can even get a thermostat for it if you wish!

    Amazon.com: Hydrofarm MTPRTC Digital Thermostat For Heat Mats: Patio, Lawn & Garden

    I like this solution much better than what I've seen for reptiles. If you must use a heat mat, this is the way to go. Tested and used by yours truly. It works great, and only gently warms the bottom. No hot spots!

  9. #139
    Pyrondenium Rose kibakiba's Avatar
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    Re: Meet the gang!

    I used a heating pad for Runt when she was in the plastic container before the 20 gallon. I kept it on low or medium through out the day, but kept it on low at night since it gets very cold here. Now its used to keep my crickets toasty.
    Chantel
    2.2.3 Thamnophis ordinoides Derpy Scales, Hades, Mama, Runt, Pumpkin, Azul, Spots
    (Rest in peace Snakey, Snap, Speckles, Silver, Ember and Angel.)

  10. #140
    Pyrondenium Rose kibakiba's Avatar
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    Re: Meet the gang!

    Here's a couple pictures of Snap. She's so cute


    Chantel
    2.2.3 Thamnophis ordinoides Derpy Scales, Hades, Mama, Runt, Pumpkin, Azul, Spots
    (Rest in peace Snakey, Snap, Speckles, Silver, Ember and Angel.)

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