New anerythristic red sided baby!

[RedSidedSPR]

Scott sold me this new anery red sided garter last night!
He's 6 days old and has never eaten.
I'll start him on guppies today or tomorrow.

He's still a little nervous/jumpy. Makes it really hard to take a picture. It's hard anyway to take a good Macro picture of something this small. These are the best of what I have so far.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b283/chucknkelly/Babysnake013.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b283/chucknkelly/Babysnake019.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b283/chucknkelly/Babysnake034.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b283/chucknkelly/Babysnake039.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b283/chucknkelly/Babysnake033.jpg

More to come.

[BLUESIRTALIS]

Great looking snake.

[guidofatherof5]

Nice little scrub.
Keep us posted.

[RedSidedSPR]

Will do.

[Sonya610]

Very pretty. The pictures look great! I have probably taken 100 shots of my 6 week olds and only 2-3 look halfway decent, rest are blurry beyond belief so imo your photos are excellent.

[ConcinusMan]

Yup. That's an anery snake alright.:rolleyes:

I would recommend that you be very careful that the little guy doesn't get too warm. Damp moss or paper towels to hid in is a good idea too. Don't keep the tank wet necessarily, but keep a damp place for him to retreat to and make darn sure it's easy for him to find and access clean cool water for drinking. A little cooler and a little damper than you would normally keep adults is a good idea. Babies are very susceptible to heat stress and dehydration compared to adults.

[d_virginiana]

Aw, very nice little snake :)

[Hornets23]

Oh my thats cute....and it really makes me want some..

[reptile65]

It's so tiny!! Congrats on the new addition.

[RedSidedSPR]

Thanks.

I tried feeding him some little guppies but... no luck.

Sorry i didn't upload more pics yet. Probably get them up tomorrow.

[guidofatherof5]

At 6 days old he may not be ready to eat just yet.
I find feeding guppies to babies works best when you put the baby on a small container.
The small contained puts the baby in close contact with the food.
With a small amount of water in the container it gives the guppy a little swimming room.
That movement is what will hopefully cause a feeding response.

[ConcinusMan]

It's a bit early. Have patience.

[RdubSnider]

Yeah Steve is right on with the cup method. Putting the cup n a dark place like the cabinet helps alot. Good looking snake. They get better and better looking every shed. Have fun

[zooplan]

:mad: Red sideds without red???

There´s no space for that in my place!

:o I like RED.

Hope you´ll have a lot of fun with your new addition,
although they don´t look like Redsided to me,
they might be beautyful from another point of view.:p:D:p

[Scott F]

Hey Jesse,

It was nice to meet you and your family. Those are nice photos, they are hard to get good pics of when they are that small. Good luck w/ him, keep us posted on how he is doing for you.

Scott

[ConcinusMan]

:mad: Red sideds without red???

There´s no space for that in my place!

:o I like RED.

I hear you there. However...

Well, you do know that an anery red sided, mated with an albino red sided, will produce double hets? (het "snow" is actually double het for anery and albino). Or maybe this anery is het or possible het for albino already? Two recessive traits - anery and albino phenotype in combo equals snow red sided. That's the only thing that makes the anery red sided worth anything IMO. By themselves they are rather unimpressive but they can turn an albino into a snow.

At any rate, don't much care for anery red sides myself but that genotype is required in combination with albino to produce snows. still a long shot in any mating combo.

[RedSidedSPR]

Yup. That's an anery snake alright.:rolleyes:

Kinda already knew that...:rolleyes:


I would recommend that you be very careful that the little guy doesn't get too warm. Damp moss or paper towels to hid in is a good idea too. Don't keep the tank wet necessarily, but keep a damp place for him to retreat to and make darn sure it's easy for him to find and access clean cool water for drinking. A little cooler and a little damper than you would normally keep adults is a good idea. Babies are very susceptible to heat stress and dehydration compared to adults.

What do you recommend? Right now he has a heat getting it around 80-82 in one corner, but stays around room temp on the other side. (76-77).
My adult is 85 and 77.



I find feeding guppies to babies works best when you put the baby on a small container.
The small contained puts the baby in close contact with the food.
With a small amount of water in the container it gives the guppy a little swimming room.
That movement is what will hopefully cause a feeding response.

That's what I did. The guppies weren't cooperating! They just lay there. Hardly swam or flopped at all.


It's a bit early. Have patience.

I'm in no hurry.

[ConcinusMan]

What do you recommend? Right now he has a heat getting it around 80-82 in one corner, but stays around room temp on the other side. (76-77).

Sounds OK. It should get a bit cooler for 8-10 hours at night IMO. Perhaps just 70's at night. Probably won't hurt one bit to mist the tank once or twice a day. I do this for the baby tanks especially when the heat sources tend to dry the air and bring the humidity below 50 percent. And also, like I was saying before, some damp material in one part of the enclosure to retreat into is a good idea. I use moss but even paper towels or newspaper will do. Just use care to ensure that it isn't a situation where the entire enclosure stays wet all the time. Just the cool side and just damp, not wet. You can use your judgement based on the snake's behavior as far as temps go. If he's constantly clinging to one side or the other seeking warmer or cooler temps, adjust accordingly.

[RedSidedSPR]

The lamp is turned off at night, so it's room temp (high 70's) at night.

My concern with damp stuff and misting, is the humidity right now is high 60's. (sometimes 70 at night...) Any more would be really pushing it.

[ConcinusMan]

OK, well you're the "daddy" use your judgement. It's not rocket science.

[RedSidedSPR]

OK, well you're the "daddy" use your judgement. It's not rocket science.

Are you saying i can make it, i don't know, 74?? 'cause that's what would happen.

Seriously, I'd really like to be able to mist it, and stuff, but if you know what you're talking about that would do bad things to my snake. Wouldn't it?

[ConcinusMan]

If your humidity is regularly above 50 percent and as high as 70 don't worry about misting. I do it because the humidity in my baby tanks gets low and things dry out fast like a dang desert.

[RedSidedSPR]

Gotcha. So why did you suggest misting in the first place??:D

[ConcinusMan]

Next question please.

[RedSidedSPR]

Ok... What bedding do you use here?

S5tY5tGRvDI

[ConcinusMan]

That was a rather expensive option but I bought it online relatively cheap (about half the cost) compared to pet store prices.

It's mixture of reptibark (fir bark) and eco-earth (coconut fiber) and some dried loose moss. It's nice in that if you're having a problem with low humidity, you can dampen it a bit and it will keep the humidity up, and yet dries fully within a day. Smells nice, absorbs virtually all fecal/urate odor, and is highly resistant to molding.

I'm currently using seasoned hardwood shavings (from a locally growing deciduous tree) that I got for free. It's just like shredded aspen. Not my favorite but the price was right.

[RedSidedSPR]

If i get something other than aspen I'll use something like that. Thanks.

[infernalis]

I use a mix of bark and coconut, looks nice, absorbs smells.....cheap....

http://www.mypetforums.com/buck/substrate.jpg

[RedSidedSPR]

I know, I've always wanted to try that. And I think I will

[RedSidedSPR]

More pics!

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b283/chucknkelly/Babysnake075.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b283/chucknkelly/Babysnake063.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b283/chucknkelly/Babysnake059.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b283/chucknkelly/Babysnake054.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b283/chucknkelly/Babysnake056.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b283/chucknkelly/Babysnake071.jpg

[kibakiba]

Such huge eyes and big head, with a tiny body. So cute. I love that little guy :D

[ConcinusMan]

You need to get that hydrometer up off the substrate to get an accurate reading.:cool:

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b283/chucknkelly/Babysnake054.jpg

[RedSidedSPR]

Such huge eyes and big head, with a tiny body. So cute. I love that little guy :D

Me too:D


You need to get that hydrometer up off the substrate to get an accurate reading.:cool:

It is, that was only temporary. But can I ask why it matters?

[RedSidedSPR]

Darn. I'm gonna need to get more two-sided tape. The thermometer keeps falling off and gets covered in aspen.:p

[guidofatherof5]

Be very careful with any kind of tape.
There have been many horror stories on the forum about snakes and tape.

[ConcinusMan]

No tape in the enclosure period. Even if you think he can't reach it. Not worth the risk. Can be deadly.

[RedSidedSPR]

They come with two-sided tape, so it can stick to the glass. I can't use that? How do I keep them off the substrate??

[guidofatherof5]

I concur with Richard's advice.
No tape of any kind is a good policy.
Zip tie it to a rock or branch.

[ConcinusMan]

You can usually find clear suction cups with loops or hooks at a dollar store. You could use those on the glass and then hang the hydrometer on them with string or zip ties. It's just best for your hydrometer to be about half way up the height of the tank, about in the middle, and away from water dishes and basking lights. Or like Steve said, you can attach to a branch. Just get it up in the air away from the substrate and don't hang it directly over a water dish. You want it to sample the air in the tank and not be influenced by drying effects of hot lights or evaporating moisture from the substrate or water dish.

It's not that critical to monitor humidity anyway. I already know from checking previously that the humidity in my tanks is almost always within tolerance. My house averages 55 percent and sometimes the tanks are a little higher or a little lower but well within tolerance. Like I said, humidity isn't really an issue unless it's consistently very dry (below 40 percent) or if it's very high (above 85)

I do check periodically but I do not regularly keep hydrometers in most of my tanks. If your tank is consistently 60-70 percent, which it appears it has been, then it's fine. No need to constantly monitor it.

[Stefan-A]

You need to get that hydrometer up off the substrate to get an accurate reading.:cool:



You can usually find clear suction cups with loops or hooks at a dollar store. You could use those on the glass and then hang the hydrometer on them with string or zip ties. It's just best for your hydrometer to be about half way up the height of the tank, about in the middle, and away from water dishes and basking lights. Or like Steve said, you can attach to a branch. Just get it up in the air away from the substrate and don't hang it directly over a water dish. You want it to sample the air in the tank and not be influenced by drying effects of hot lights or evaporating moisture from the substrate or water dish.

It's not that critical to monitor humidity anyway. I already know from checking previously that the humidity in my tanks is almost always within tolerance. My house averages 55 percent and sometimes the tanks are a little higher or a little lower but well within tolerance. Like I said, humidity isn't really an issue unless it's consistently very dry (below 40 percent) or if it's very high (above 85)

I do check periodically but I do not regularly keep hydrometers in most of my tanks. If your tank is consistently 60-70 percent, which it appears it has been, then it's fine. No need to constantly monitor it.
Hygrometer.

[ConcinusMan]

Hygrometer.oops. That never did make sense to me why it's spelled with a "G". I suppose it's because "hydrometer" was already taken. I should know better. I make my own wine so I own both.:rolleyes:

[RedSidedSPR]

Hydrometer is a word, just not the one you're looking for... I that I was looking for. I think I might have made the same mistake...

Hydrometer | Define Hydrometer at Dictionary.com (http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/hydrometer)
Hygrometer | Define Hygrometer at Dictionary.com (http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/hygrometer)

I don't feel the need to consistently monitor the humidity with a hygrometer/hydrometer, but I have one, so I might as well keep in one of my two cages. Why not?

I won't use tape, glad to know.

[ConcinusMan]

Yeah, I know what a hydrometer is. I have one. That, along with a refractometer is essential for getting my wine to come out just right. (not too dry, not too sweet) The hydrometer helps me get the specific gravity of the juice correct and also tells me how much alcohol is in my wine when it's finished. The refractometer tells me how much sugar (dissolved solids) is in the mix.

[RedSidedSPR]

Ah.... so you make wine... good to know:D:rolleyes:

Getting guppies today and will try again feeding him. In the clear container...

[RedSidedSPR]

sigh... is it just my place, or are feeder guppies expensive? 10 for $2?

[kibakiba]

That's extremely cheap. 3 places I've went to are $5 for 10 and up. Not too much less than getting a fancy guppy, which are 3 dollars each.

[RedSidedSPR]

Oh.. I guess i'm just used to getting minnows which are only 13cents.

Right now he's in a clear container with 6 or so guppies in there with him. Showing no interest.
How long should I leave him in there??

[kibakiba]

Well, if he's not hungry, he's not going to eat. I would say.. no more than 3 hours, because it would be pretty obvious that he's not in the mood to eat.

[RedSidedSPR]

Right. I left him in there for two last time.

Another question:

Is it okay to do it tomorrow, than the next day, or should I wait a day or two in between?

[kibakiba]

Personally, I would wait a few days and let him get settled in. He isn't going to starve within a few days. ;)

My babies go up to a week between feedings if I cant get to feeding them. Of course, I always try to feed them every other day.

[ConcinusMan]

Ah.... so you make wine... good to know:D:rolleyes:

Yeah, pear/honey wine. It's yummy. Ready to drink 90 days after starting it, and around 12% alcohol. Cost me about $3 a gallon to make it since I get pear concentrate and Bentonite (speeds up clarification) for free.:D


sigh... is it just my place, or are feeder guppies expensive? 10 for $2?

That's cheap. Really cheap.

[RedSidedSPR]

Yeah, pear/honey wine. It's yummy. Ready to drink 90 days after starting it, and around 12% alcohol. Cost me about $3 a gallon to make it since I get pear concentrate and Bentonite (speeds up clarification) for free.:D

Nice.




That's cheap. Really cheap.

Wow. That's a first.:D

[RedSidedSPR]

Personally, I would wait a few days and let him get settled in. He isn't going to starve within a few days. ;)

My babies go up to a week between feedings if I cant get to feeding them. Of course, I always try to feed them every other day.

I waited 3 days after the last time I tried. I'll wait another 3 days. Or 2...

[Mommy2many]

Can you hunt for baby worms? That may help.

[ConcinusMan]

True. I usually start with baby night crawlers or very small earthworms. Doesn't hurt to get a little dirt in there too. When they finally do take a bite, it introduces beneficial bacteria to their digestive system. I always start my babies with "dirty worms" then graduate to fish and pinkies.

[mb90078]

That's cheap. Really cheap.

Yeah, I wish I could get my hands on some period, and I'd really jump on them for that price.

[RedSidedSPR]

Worms? Will that work better? The don't flop around, will they still get a response?

Okay I'm having a hard time finding something to feed him in. Does it have to be plastic? Will a glass jar work?

[ConcinusMan]

Well you know, I suppose part of it is what species/subspecies you are working with but all my babies have always reacted with a feeding response to the scent of the food. They don't really care if it's moving or not. However, you can always use very small worms, cut them, and throw in the worm pieces while they're still moving. My babies usually are scared of the movement though, and won't touch them until they quit moving.:rolleyes:

[RedSidedSPR]

I don't think mine is scrared, but he just pays no attention to them.

will a glass jar work as a feeding container?

[mb90078]

Another thing to try, just in case you haven't, is to feed them inside their current cage. They may be less "agitated" if you can offer the food to them while they are inside of their hide where they are comfortable and relaxed. Again, definitely not a guarantee, but worth a shot when you're trying many different options.

[ConcinusMan]

Another thing to try, just in case you haven't, is to feed them inside their current cage. They may be less "agitated" if you can offer the food to them while they are inside of their hide where they are comfortable and relaxed. Again, definitely not a guarantee, but worth a shot when you're trying many different options.

That's pretty much what I do unless it just isn't working. Everyone's situation and snakes are different and they can't be fed in their enclosure due to group dynamics/fighting, substrate issues, etc. That's why I like to start babies out on paper or bare liner, feeding in their own enclosure without having to move them. Once they get started, you can do whatever works.

WuE4lrgOR_4

But then again, those babies were already feeding well. It's always a hurdle to get them to take their first meal, and I always fuss and worry like the current situation. Then one day, success. After that it's usually smooth sailing and they act like they have years experience at eating.:p

I've had groups that flat refused eating until I did something like the container feeding thing, but with worms. Once they knew the smell/taste of worms, I could just tong feed them in their own enclosure. The main hurdle is that first bite. That first meal. After that, they become pros (at eating) overnight.

[d_virginiana]

I've never fed mine in anything but his enclosure. He was always going on hunger strikes as a baby. I think we tried fish, then stopped for about a week and tried worms. Then he wouldn't eat the worms, so we tried putting him in a different enclosure to feed him but that didn't work either. Then we had no clue what to do, so we just stuck the fish back in there and he ate like four at once. :P

Sometimes now I think he stops eating when he wants to get a specific food. We just go through a rotation until he decided on what he wants to eat. :P

[ConcinusMan]

That's common in my experience. Sometimes it's not that the snake doesn't want to eat. He just doesn't want what you're offering.

[RedSidedSPR]

I've ALWAYS fed my other in his cage. He won;t eat anywhere else...

But I don't like feeding my baby in his cage because he'll swallow the bedding. I guess I should get some "reptile carpet"...

I did try though. Offered it to him in his hide, and put some guppies in his water bowl. No luck.

[ConcinusMan]

I feed babies in their enclosure most of the time, even with substrate. I tong feed them and keep the pieces small so they swallow it right away. I just put it in front of their face. They know the routine and usually take it on sight without even checking to see what it is. (by smelling it) Works for me.

[RedSidedSPR]

My other snake does that too. Right out of my hands. No tongs needed.

I just bought 20 guppies, put them in an aquarium, went out to dinner, came home and 16 OF THEM WERE DEAD!!! now I only have four.

The crappy, half dead guppies, are in with the snake in a small container. Dying. Is it worth it to leave him over night?

[guidofatherof5]

Freeze the dead one. They will come in handy for scenting or just feeding-off in the future.

[Jeff B]

Steves advice to freeze them is good advice, you might even want to just freeze 3-4 per small plastic snake bag to avoid freeze thaws. That way you can just thaw out a bag with 3-4 per feeding.
Addressing the other issue of most of the fish dead after an hour of being added to your aquarium, (this should not happen, loosing a couple may be norm) means something is out of whack with your aquarium water parameters or you might not have acclimated or normalize their temps before dumping them in the aquarium. This is typically done by floating the bag for 15-20 minutes, sometimes it is also advantageous to slowly mix water from the aquarium with the bag water IF the chemistry (pH or hardness generally) of the place where the fish came is very different from your aquariums.

[RedSidedSPR]

Right I know all that. (including the freezing) i guess I failed to mention that it's a small filter-less tank... I just threw 'em in there. But they usually last a day or two:rolleyes:

Anyway, I left him overnight in a container with all the living ones (6) and two dead ones that came out with the net.

HE DIDN'T EAT.

All but one of the 6 guppies somehow survived the night, so they were floppin' and swimming all night. (why didn't they survive the tank I put 'em in?)

Now what.

I guess I'll try the earthworm trick you mentioned, Steve, And wait another few days for guppies again.