What exactly causes RI?

[Invisible Snake]

Hey what are the known causes for RI? I know it is infectious so if 1 snake has it there is the potential to pass it to other reptiles in ones collection, but how did patient zero first contract RI? If it is caused by cold air/environment then why don't all snakes develop an RI during brumation? Is it because before we place our snakes in brumation we introduce them to the cold temperatures gradually?

[EasternGirl]

I believe that it is a bacterial infection. My eastern female, Cee Cee, has chronic respiratory problems...the vet said she probably picked up an infection while she lived outside and because it wasn't treated, it caused damage that will be chronic. He put her on antibiotics when it got really bad. I suppose that it could be contagious...my vet did check the snake that I had rooming with her at the time...but he was fine and the vet didn't tell me I had to separate them...perhaps it was because she was being treated with the antibiotics. A bacterial infection wouldn't be caused by cold weather. It's like when people say "Wear a coat, it's cold outside, you'll catch pneumonia". That is a myth. You can only catch a virus or a bacterial infection from contact with the virus or bacteria. So, I would say if you have a snake with an RI, it would probably be best to isolate the snake until the RI is resolved.

[gregmonsta]

It can also be fungal which is why it's important to keep enclosures and fittings clean, substrate dry and therefore minimise the opportunities for either bacteria or fungal spores to develop.

[ConcinusMan]

Hey what are the known causes for RI? I know it is infectious so if 1 snake has it there is the potential to pass it to other reptiles in ones collection, but how did patient zero first contract RI? If it is caused by cold air/environment then why don't all snakes develop an RI during brumation? Is it because before we place our snakes in brumation we introduce them to the cold temperatures gradually?

Inability to regulate body temperature on it's own is a major cause. That is caused by a lack of a temperature gradient and/or too warm with no way to cool down. Can also be caused by too cold and damp, which encourages fungal and bacteria growth in the tank but that's less common. Keeping your corn snakes/garters too warm is the #1 cause according to experienced herp vets. This stresses the snake's immune system making it less efficient. And just like most non-fatal (with antibiotic treatment) pneumonia's in people, which usually follow a bad cold,(pneumonia in that case is a secondary infection) the infectious culprit is just common household bacteria which normally wouldn't be harmful. Most RI's in snakes ARE NOT contagious, (with viral pneumonia being the exception) just as bacterial pneumonia in people isn't contagious.

If a snake is fighting off a virus, can't cool down/warm up as it pleases, gets gravid, is brumating, etc. this stresses the immune system and opens the door to bacterial RI. Fortunately, if caught early, antibiotics are very effective. If it goes on too long without treatment, sometimes they will be vulnerable to returning RI's for the rest of their lives.

Best way to prevent it is a proper gradient. I use long tanks on purpose. Makes it easier to provide a 20 degree gradient (or better) from one end to the other. Low 70's on one end, mid to upper 80's at a basking spot allows them to regulate their own temperature. It's also a good idea to turn off all heat at night if the room doesn't drop below 60 at night. (although they can of course handle cooler nights) Don't make the mistake of heating the entire enclosure. Most of it should just be at room temperature. If you have the gradient, combined with keeping substrate clean and dry, you'll almost never see a RI happen. Don't keep your garters too warm. You can literally love them to death. I do recommend cooling your snake gradually before brumation. Not because of RI's but to allow the snake's metabolism to slow and prepare for brumation. Simply turning off the heat for a week is enough but I usually do this at a time of year when a closed off room gets down into the low 60's or a bit cooler. I leave them in this cool room for about a week before they go into the fridge/garage.


It can also be fungal which is why it's important to keep enclosures and fittings clean, substrate dry and therefore minimise the opportunities for either bacteria or fungal spores to develop.

True. The only way to diagnose fungal infections is with a tracheal wash/culture done by a vet. Often times there is a secondary bacterial infection and vets will treat that with antibiotics. However, without a tracheal wash to rule out fungus, the primary infection, the RI will usually just return. Fungal RI's aren't very common are avoided simply by keeping substrate clean and dry, and proper temperatures. This is why I would never brumate on damp substrate. In this part of the country, the mold spore count is very high in the winter. Fungus would start growing in a big hurry and snakes would be breathing in spores while their bodies a very cool. Perfect conditions for fungus to take hold in the lungs.

Don't allow moisture / condensation in your brumation containers. Sniff your brumation containers every few days. If it starts smelling musty, correct that. This is less of a problem if you live in a dry climate.