Wild caught and injured

[Andii]

My mom's boyfriend picked up a baby garter by the tail in our front garden. It did the "helicopter" thing and broke the end of it's tail off. It isn't bleeding, but the poor thing appears to be in pretty rough shape already. I think it's dehydrated and hungry, it's in a standard hospital set-up, so it does have water if it wants. Should I feed it now, or wait until the stress wears off a bit? I don't want to risk a regurgitation. It's scales are rough and lifting, with some patches that look like injuries, though I can't tell if they're new or old. It's extremely docile, which I'm sure has more to do with terror than temperament. I have no experience with wild caught or garters, and I'd really appreciate any help you can give me. I'll post some pics once it's had a bit of a chance to adjust to the new settings. Thanks!

[Invisible Snake]

I would wait 2-3 days before feeding him so he can adjust to his new setting. Any updates on him?

[guidofatherof5]

Photos would be great to get a look at the scale situation. A water dish on paper towels and a hide are a pretty basic setup.
What makes you think it is dehydrated? Where are you located(State)?

[Andii]

It seems to settling in well. It's very inquisitive, coming out of the hide often to take a look around. It's still not showing any signs of aggression. The scales and tail don't seem to be getting any worse, I've been regularly applying Polysporin to any areas that look like injuries. Non of them are bleeding, producing pus, or increasing in size, from what I can see. I think it was dehydrated because the skin was EXTREMELY loose and dry, it's looking much better now that it's had access to water. I can't get it to eat anything, I've tried pinkie, butter worms and cod. It showed moderately more interest in the cod, but not enough to eat it. It's very thin, I can feel it's spine quite easily, and it's body is "mushy" feeling. Like I said, I know nothing about garters or wild caughts, any advice would be appreciated. :) I'm taking fresh pics of all the injuries now.

[Andii]

Here are the pics! Sorry about the image sizes and quality, my computer only let me save one edited one for some reason. I have more if anyone needs to see something else.

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Thanks again!

[Andii]

Sorry, I tried posting a reply earlier, and it said it needed to be approved by a mod, I didn't realize that quick reply was different than reply to thread. The wounds haven't increased in size or severity since I found it, I've been treating regularly with Polysporin. I'm trying to keep it dry, but it keeps going through it's water dish. It's behaviour is alert and curious, but I can't get it to eat. I tried feeding it before I saw the response saying to wait a bit. It's just so... mushy is the only word I can think to describe it. It has almost no muscle tone. I've tried a pinky, some cod, and butter worms. How long can a sick snake go without eating before I should try force feeding? Anything else that I can do? How worried should I be about parasites? It hasn't pooped since the first day (it went on me when I picked it up to rescue it), it has however produced urates, so it must be drinking. I think it might be going into shed, it's eyes are a tiny bit cloudy, though it could be my imagination. Thanks again for any help you can offer.

[guidofatherof5]

No insects at all in the diet and I would not suggest you force feed it.
Those look like rather minor injuries. The tail injury is of most concern. The other 2 look like they are healing/scared.
It's not eating for a reason and that is what must be found out.

Have you tired night crawlers? What State are you in? That will help us ID the snake and possible food items.

[Andii]

I live in Ontario, Canada. The tail injury picture was taken right after it happened, it's drying up nicely though, no inflammation that I can see. I haven't tried night crawlers, are they just earthworms or...? I've never dealt with garters or wild caught animals, so I don't really know what is considered "normal" for either, all I have is a captive bred corn snake. It showed more interest in the cod than anything else that I tried, it flicked it's tongue at it quite a bit, but only when I held the fish right in front of it. It didn't show interest in anything else.

[guidofatherof5]

I believe T.radix(Plains Garter), T.sirtalis parietalis (Red Sided Garter), T.sirtalis (Eastern Garter), T.butleri (Butler's Garter) and T.sauritus septentrionalis (Northern Ribbon Snake) all range in Ontario. Some of those have very limited range.

[Invisible Snake]

Maybe try leaving some live guppies in his/her water bowl over night. Garters can go months without eating. Since the garter is wild caught there is a chance that he could be carrying parasites and should stay in quarantine for at least 90 days. Make sure you wash your hands before and after handling.

[ConcinusMan]

Those injuries are very, very minor and already healing. I really don't think any sort of special treatment is necessary. It does look a bit thin though. Might be carrying a heavy parasite load. If it were me, I would just release where found. If keeping it is the plan, it's critical that you get it eating soon before it gets too weak.

Force feeding is a bad idea, especially since we don't know the reason for it not eating. Most of the time, force feeding is very harmful and I wouldn't recommend it unless it's a very valuable snake and only as a last ditch effort.

[Wyoming]

My personal experiences tell me that the best option may be to cut up the cod into very easily edible pieces, count the pieces and place them on a small dish either in his hide or right near the entrance to his hide. Then leave him alone, totally alone, don't even check on him for a whole day.

That has done the trick for me on a couple of occasions with picky eating garters.

Good Luck!

[Selkielass]

Eastern. Stripes look right next to belly scales and head is big so not butler.
Looks cat mauled- internal injuries will determine if it lives or not. Active curiosity is good mushy body bad, tailored purely cosmetic.

Keep it comfortable with both dry and moist hides available.
Offer small bits of fish and worm every day and hope for the best.
Antibiotic ointment may help.

My rescues often won't eat until they have. Healed enough to shed- this shed is often hard and may reopen surface wounds. Just reapply ointment afterand don't panic.

Be very careful when handling so internal injuries aren't aggrivated. These will have to heal on their own...or not.
you can only do your best to provide a comfortable environment for healing and let nature decide the rest.
God bless.

[EasternGirl]

Looks like an eastern...but it also looks like it could be one of those parietalis without the red like Chris has. Poor thing! Glad you are taking care of it.

[Light of Dae]

Looks like a red-sided garter to me. Those wounds do look very minor n should heal just fine.
I think he could feel 'mushy to you for a couple reasons....
1. your used to the muscle of a corn snake
2. He hasn't eaten.

Try to find some 'dew worms' same thing as 'night crawlers'. Earth worms are very similar and also ok to eat. Just don't feed any 'red wigglers' or 'trout worms'.

Try going to a Canadian tire that sells live bait Or a fishing store some thing, anywhere that sells live bait should have worms. Be aware that some times worms are mislabled as trout worms but are in fact dew worms. Simply open the tub up n take a look at the worms, if they have red bands across them, avoid! If not your safe! (If you feel really unsure you could pick up a worm n pinch it, if it emit a yellowy bitter smelling slim its unsafe, if its clear-ish n just smells like... worm lol its safe. (Just be sure to have a napkin or tissue with you))

My snakes all go nuts for worms! I cut up the worm into bite size pieces put them in a little dish or jar lid n had a little bit of water. n serve!

Adding water is very important when you have a picky or shy eater, its keeps the food moist long enough for the snake to go try it. If the food starts to get dry n tacky, the snake may go n want to eat it but after feeling it decide it is not the right texture n wont eat. Or He could still try n eat it and not be able to swallow it because it'll get stuck in his throat n he could choke if he cannot get it out of his mouth. But JUST ADD WATER and no worries!

[Light of Dae]

Also important is Leave Him Alone time. lol If he doesn't eat on your next try... IGNORE him completely(save for changing his water) for 7-10 days or longer. Don't watch him, don't offer food, don't touch him, don't do anything with him or his tank except change water if it needs it. Let him FULLY settle in, let his mind get completely wrapped around where he is. He'll be fine so long as there is water.

After ignoring him for this time then offer worms in a dish with water. Simply put dish in, shut lid, sit back n watch (sit still) or walk away n leave him to it. He'll eat. Trust me.

[ConcinusMan]

Sound advice. Definitely worth a try. Sometimes offering too often and/or disturbing them daily, actually prolongs their unwillingness to eat.;)

[zirliz]

poor snake hope he eats soon I found guppies work well for non-feeders it's what I started my first baby garter on,

[ConcinusMan]

Instincts are kicking in. Garters from northern latitudes are highly responsive to seasonal changes due to lengthening or shortening of days, regardless of temperature. The snake "knows" its time to hibernate. Will likely refuse food until spring/simulated spring. It's just biorhythm.

I think the best thing for the snake would be to keep very cool (50-60 degrees F) and inactive for a couple of months. Follow up with gradually increasing daylight hours and wamer temperatures.

The snake will likely just hold out on food but will starve/lose weight without the cool down. The colder temps/inactivity slows the metabolism and they don't need to eat.

You wouldn't eat half a large pizza and dessert if it was 10 min before bedtime would you? Snake doesn't want eat because it's bed time. Wake up time is spring.

I still think that the snake should have been left alone or moved as little distance as nessesary to remove it from immediate danger. The well intended interference often does more harm than good. Nature can take care of her own.

[EasternGirl]

I would eat half a pizza and dessert before bedtime..heck, half the time I get up in the middle of the night and cook a meal.

If you could post a pic of the snake...we could tell you if he/she looks dehydrated, ill, etc.

[ConcinusMan]

good idea

[Greg'sGarters]

Put an earthworm in there. See if he takes it, don't constantly watch him. Just put it in his tank and leave the room. Check back every hour and if he hasn't eaten it in 4 hours, take it out. Most healthy garters will have trouble refusing an earthworm. Don't add any supplements. Don't cut a big one in half get a medium sized full one that moves a lot. If he eats then he's fine and you can feed him earthworms until he seems completely healed. Then you can try to put him on pinkies. Also remember to keep him warm. Keep his temp at around 80-90 degrees for a sick or injured snake. Add a lot of cool (I mean cool temperature wise, but if you have some stuff that would be effective and looks nice, go for it!) hiding places. Try not to use an under tank heater. Those will make it harder to provide a cool hiding place. Monitor his behavior and keep us updated! Hope this helped!!!

[ConcinusMan]

Keep his temp at around 80-90 degrees for a sick or injured snake. Add a lot of cool (I mean cool temperature wise, but if you have some stuff that would be effective and looks nice, go for it!) hiding places. Try not to use an under tank heater. Those will make it harder to provide a cool hiding place. Monitor his behavior and keep us updated! Hope this helped!!!

You contradicted. What you just described, one should do anyway, sick snake or not. Keeping sick/injured snakes warm is a fallacy. Too many people think this means that you shouldn't have a cool end/gradient and that the whole tank should be warm. Any herp vet worth his salt will tell you that this is bad for them. Sure, it can make RI symptoms subside a bit, but it stresses the immune system and can actually cause RI's. The only thing you should do different, is leave the daytime temps on 24/7 instead of turning off the heat at night. In any case, a wide gradient is what they need. Perhaps around 70 on the cool/water dish end, around 90 for a basking spot. Go ahead and use an undertank heater or even combine it with overhead heat to warm the air. If done properly it isn't hard at all to still provide the cool places you speak of. An undertank heater shouldn't cover more than 1/4 to 1/3 of the entire floor area anyway.